I moved to Galway 8 months ago with no expectations in order to complete an artist residency. I ended up living in a rental unit with two other American artists and sharing a large studio space between about six international artists who came and went. There was only one artist who was with me the entire time, Kelly from New Jersey. I was only meant to stay 4 months.

The first month in Galway was like a fairytale. We were surrounded by horses, cows, farms, old churches, forests, and a pub. Venturing into town was a whole ordeal. A 20 minute walk to the bus stop and an inevitable 15-45 minute wait for the bus regardless of the alleged existence of a bus schedule. I found myself walking 20,000 steps per day without trying. This was a huge relief from my norm of being in my bruised 2008 golden Honda Odyssey for a quarter of each day back home. At this time, the artists and I were figuring out the city, going to pubs, and trying to attend local events. Yet, all of us agreed it was ridiculously difficult to get any work done.

It is funny because Galway is called “the graveyard of ambition” and that became immediately apparent. It is not that people here are lazy or misguided. In fact, regardless of how successful or uninterested in work a Galwegian is, it seems that they hold one thing to be far more valuable than money and that is: the craic. Now, I promise dozens of Irish people have said this to me and it is not an original thought. In fact, I think most locals have this notion ready to repeat to each American they encounter. Basically, ambition can be easily diffused here because of how easy it is to have fun. At least, that’s how I see it. Some people probably do just get comfortable. It depends who you ask. 

To generalize, people in Galway are often chatty, funny, and interesting. There is also music on the streets year-round and many local characters to observe. It is really hard to be bored here and addictive to be included in the chaos. Around my third month there, I wanted to be less secluded by the semi-remote residency and venture more into the local community. I definitely wanted to stay.

At first, I hated how concentrated the city centre of Galway was. In Dublin, the centre is huge like New York or London: which, again, is a sentiment that has been regurgitated to me by most locals. In the Twin Cities, there really is no centre. There’s no one place to sit all day and undoubtedly run into your boss, your neighbour, your siblings, your childhood best friend, your favourite teacher, your doctor and your worst enemy. I mean, you might see an old high school classmate everytime you go to Target, but that’s really it. In Galway, it is tiny. And you will be reuniting with people constantly. I mean anonymity is almost impossible, no matter how reclusive or shy you may be.

Over time, I began loving the tiny nature of town. It quickly eradicated the issue of loneliness abroad. It was hard to feel alone when the barista who made you a latte two days ago was now making conversation with you at the book shop. Or when the old grannies at the bus stop inevitably make a comment on the horrific weather, the bus’s tardiness, or how “wrecked” they are and then tell you their life story and why their grandkids are all fleeing to Australia. Or really any old man at the pub ready to perform his monologue to anyone who will pretend to listen. I loved just being out and about, no plan, just wandering.

When all of, literally ALL of, my savings ran out. I began working at a horrendous hotel job and becoming more active in my painting. It was mildly draining. The weather was grey and cold and consistent. The artists I lived with and loved all moved back home. I was hardly connected to the community in town anymore and did not have enough friends to keep me afloat. I had no interest in walking about town in the cold and dreary climate. Soon, my four month residency was up. Of course, I stayed but I somewhat started from scratch. In a rage, I quit my job and got a new apartment. I began working at a jewellery shop in town and lived so much closer to the action. Also, the weather was changing. 

I felt so much more energised and took a hiatus from my visual art to use my time to meet more people and feel at home. With two jewelry shops in the middle of town, a good chunk of my work day is spent wandering. Once I am off, I often continue my observational walks. The change from winter to spring is extremely apparent in Galway. All of a sudden, the streets are packed at the sight of the sun. If you can wear a short sleeved shirt, expect the streets to be filled to the brim, like downtown Minneapolis after the Taylor Swift concert. But it’s constant. People drink outside and sit by the docks and everyone is talking to everyone. You can feel the city buzzing. I am sure if you sat in the same spot for 12 hours on a sunny Galway day, you would observe every social scenario possible and be entertained enough to delete all streaming services or be in need of therapy.

Now, I spend most of my days helping tourists buy the right claddagh ring and repeating to them the same story when I tell them I am American. I recite the familiar sentiments about life in Galway that the locals have passed onto me. Beyond work, I also began running a “Drink and Draw” where I bring art supplies and gather random people to all create artwork together. It has been a huge success and I hope it only gathers more and more people each time. As the summer approaches, I have no idea how things will change or what new experiences will come but I know I am beyond happy here. It is almost exactly suited for my lifestyle, whatever that actually is, I am still sorting out.

I plan to continue making my art, planning events to build community, and getting involved in volunteer work. Mainly, I just want to continue meeting people. I mean the people here are so hilarious and genuine, regardless of where they are from. 

I am endlessly grateful to have been supported whether by supernatural forces, my credit card, or luck every time things start to feel confusing or I long for home, I have never truly wanted to leave. I know that even if I ever return permanently to the States, Galway will always be a home for me. And I will always hold the craic as the highest priority in my life, shamelessly.

Quarantine Art by Kate O’Donnell